Exhilarating and terrifying are the two words that come to mind when asked about our sailing trip around Belize.
How else can I describe the feeling as my sister Marina and I sat on the deck shivering as Stephanie (first mate-in-training and my daughter) and Andy (our interpret captain and friend and owner of the Maiatla II, a 50′ sailboat) dove into the abys known as The Great Blue Hole, located in the middle of nowhere. We knew we were powerless to save them if something went wrong. There was nobody around, and neither of us knew how to dive. We had to trust them and trust the safety they imposed on themselves. “What time is it?” I kept asking Marina. Her answer was always the same: “Adriane relax. You cannot make the time go faster”. This went on for 40 minutes, as that was their dive time. At 36.6 m(120 ft) below, they can only stay at that depth for 5 minutes, then ascent halfway and wait 15 minutes to decompress before surfacing. Minutes dragged by, and I’m sure time ticked much slower for us.
The Great Blue Hole (GBH as the cool folks call it) )is a National Monument, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Belize, home to many sea creatures like sharks and sea turtles. Did I mention sharks? Yes, and not the friendly reef sharks and nurse sharks, but also hammerheads, bull sharks, and black tip sharks. This sinkhole lies in the center of Lighthouse Reef. The hole is 318 m (1,043 ft) across and 124 m (407 ft) deep.
It was formed during the last Ice Age, about 14,000 years ago. The cave flooded and collapsed. Amazing stalactites hang from the cave, and abundant sea life, including lobsters. (No crab hunting here; they are protected in the hole)
In 2018, a crew from Aquatica Submarines found two human bodies. It is a dangerous place and not a novice dive. As Marina and I held our breath, we saw two heads pop up. We breathed a sigh of relief. They made it! And now, the bragging rights are theirs. They are the Great Blue Holers, and Marina and I are the Great Blue hole rimmers (we snorkeled around the hole). But we do have to work on a better name for us. 🙂
This called for a drink. We mixed up a cocktail we named after Maiatla (after the sailboat). Here is the recipe: 1 shot of coconut rum, 1 shot of pineapple juice,1 shot of coconut water, and a squeeze of lemon or lemon juice.
Marina and I were all ears as they recounted their dive. Did I mention we had the whole place to ourselves?
Heading for the Great Blue Hole for a dive
How did we get there? Let me start at the beginning.
Andrew W. Gunson (Andy), a friend of Marina’s, owns a sailboat called Maiatla II, in which he and his wife Janet have been sailing to different parts of the world for decades. Marina sailed with them on a few legs, including the Galapagos. For this leg, he invited her, her sister (me) and my daughter Stephanie. We had planned to join him in December, but Andy fell on drydock and broke his ankle. So, we postponed the trip for a few months while he healed. This is how we found ourselves headed to Belize on March 4th. We flew into Belize City and got a hotel for the night right by the water. That night, we treated ourselves to a fabulous dinner and discovered Belize’s national drink…the Panty Ripper! Embarrassing to order, but the reward of that smooth Caribbean coconut rum adorned with fruit juices goes down so smoothly. Too smooth. A few drinks later, we took a cab instead of a 3-block walk. Hmm…it must have been the heat!
The next day, we visited the local museum to learn about the history of Belize.
Once a thriving Mayan civilization, Belize became a British colony in 1840. Then, after a century, it finally got its independence in 1981. The language spoken here is English, and the currency is Belizean dollar, which is traded at 2:1 ratio to the US dollar, which is used here most of the time. The people are friendly, and the country is a tropical paradise.
We met up with Andy at the grocery store, where we stocked up on supplies for our voyage, before taking a taxi to pick up Stephanie at the hotel. We were not surprised to find her at the bar having a “panty ripper”.
When we finally arrived at the Old Belize’s Kukumba Marina, we got our first glimpse of the boat moored by the dock. She is a beautiful ketch just beckoning us to come aboard. We did, and after unloading all our luggage, we sat on the deck full of enthusiasm as our captain laid out safety drills and the sailing plans, which, I might add, are fluid, as a sailboat is weather and wind dependent.
In the morning, Andy took us for a walk to show us the Kukumba Marina’s amenities and for a quick dip into the saltwater pool before the high tide signaled our departure time. Well, you don’t show someone a seawater clear pool with slides and swings and lawn chairs and concession stands with cold beer. That is how we found ourselves drinking beer at 9:00 am, sunning and swimming and burning. Yes, I said burning. Since we missed our departure time, we just surrendered to the sun. It was a big mistake which would prove to cost us a lot more than burned skin. Naturally, we felt nothing until that evening. Lesson no. 1:” Always use sunscreen even if it is a quick dip.”
As evening came, we slathered each other with gallons of aloe vera and set on the deck, cooling. It was cool and breezy. Andy told us to use bug spray. And did we listen? No. So we became dinner to no-see-ums and other flying insects. Lesson no. 2. “When on the dock or by trees, use bug spray.”
We left on high tide the next morning. Beautiful, calm seas until we got out of the bay. Then the seas became confused, rough, the wind blew fierce. A rude awakening for me. ‘This is no cruise ship’ I thought as I was tossed around like lettuce in a salad spinner. I crawled below deck, holding on to everything imaginable, as I tried to dig out my gravel ginger chews and tried to keep them down. Then I remember an old saying from a sailor friend, “When you anticipate the motion, you will never get seasick!” Lesson 3: “Stay above deck and watch the waves.”
After 5 hours of this, we reached Caye Caulker. It is called a Caye because it is formed on top of a coral reef made by sand and coral debris. We threw an anchor in the shallow waters quite a way from the shore. Andy, to make sure the anchor was well positioned, jumped off the boat like some kind of Sea Tarzan and dove deep to check it. He did this at every anchor site, in the buff. They don’t call him “the naked Canadian” for nothing. Satisfied the anchor was good, he came aboard for a celebratory beer in the cockpit in which we all partook. We did this at every destination. Now to launch the dingy and motor to shore.
Caye Caulker is a small island split by a small channel called The Split. The south part has restaurants and bars and roads that are for bicycles and golf carts only. Around 3000 people are living on it. There are beautiful sandy beaches, and in the bay, the locals feed stingrays every evening so people can go and pat them and watch the tropical sunsets. The north part of the island is a Marine Reserve featuring dive sites on the Barrier Reef. That is where Andy and Stephanie went via dingy for a dive, while Marina and I snorkeled around the anchor point looking for manatees and, of course, sipping Maiatlas on Maiatla. That evening, we enjoyed a grand tour of the island (30 minutes) and dined on some local offerings at Swing Restaurant.
In the morning, we were all ready to leave, but the motor did not start. Andy fiddled with it for a while and went to shore trying to find parts. There were no parts available, so he would have to take the ferry back to Belize City the next day for parts. We had no working motor. Yes, we were worried. If a strong wind blew in the wrong direction, we could have found ourselves smashed to the shore, since our motor did not work.
Bad luck. Andy tried to leave in the morning only to find out it was Election day. Everything closed! We would have to wait until the next day.
That night, our fears came to fruition, as a strong, fierce storm came in blowing and howling towards the shore, as we sat on anchor, helpless. As the night approached, we were worried the anchor would drag. Andy had set an alarm, but regardless, we all poked our heads out throughout the night. It was a sleepless night, but the anchor held. We were okay.
The next day, while still dark and blowing, Stephanie motored Andy via dingy to shore, where he walked to the other side of the island to catch the earliest ferry at 6:00 am. Marina and I sat on the deck in the dark with binoculars, anxiously watching for Stephanie’s return. We were worried because it was still dark, windy, and the outdoor motor was finicky and had died on us the night before. Andy wanted us to have the dingy in case something happened, and we had to leave the boat. (Note to Andy: We would never leave the boat). That’s where the maitalas where after all. 🙂
Finally, on the horizon, we saw Stephanie in the dingy heading back with some Jack Fry’s she’s picked up for us to share. They were still warm! Thank you, Stephanie. In the afternoon, the wind died down, and the sun came out. We motored back to get Andy, and a few hours later, with a very dirty and tired Andy, we were ready to depart. Andy jumped in the water for an ocean dip as we raised the anchor and motored out of harbour.
We raised our full complement of sails, as the winds rocked us along, gently caressed the sailboat and bathing us in gorgeous colours of crimson, indigo, peach and lavender.
Stephanie (aka The Young Apprentice) quickly learned her way around the sailboat, and she looked at home raising and lowering sails and helping Andy steer the boat, while Marina and I looked at home lounging on the deck, giving way to wind and sun.
That night, we anchored in the protected bay of Drowned Caye’s mangroves. We were the only boat there, so we slept with fully open hatches and were treated to a symphony of chirping and clicking. We later found that not all sounds are friendly as a few flying insects made it inside the boat for an evening meal (us).
In the morning, we counted new bites, mosquitos or no-see-um? We never heard them, so we take it they were no-see-ums. With sunrise comes a new day, the bugs disappear, the wind picks up, our spirits pick up, and our sails rise, and off we go.
We reached Turneffe Atoll by midday. Turneffe Atoll is the largest atoll in Belize and a designated marine reserve. It is home to turtles, sharks, reef fish, lobsters (No, you cannot eat them, they are in a nature reserve) and rays. It is called an atoll because it is a ring-shaped island formed of coral that surrounds a lagoon. We anchored in 2 feet of water below our keel. The reef was right there. We could see it and hear the waves breaking over it. Andy launched the dingy, and he and Stephanie went for a scuba dive about 10 minutes from the boat while Marina and I made dinner. When they got back, Andy took us into shallow water where we snorkeled. We saw the most magnificent coral of all shapes and sizes and textures and all the fish that call it home. And then we saw a shark. But it was a reef shark, and they are harmless. More scared of us. It was one of the best snorkeling experiences I have had in my life. The diversity of coral was grand.
A sailboat came and anchored right beside us. They were from Quebec. The crew dove in for a snorkel. A gentle breeze lullabied us to sleep after a freshly caught tuna dinner and a few Maiatlas on Maiatla.
Refreshed from a morning swim, we hoisted the anchor and set sail to Halfmoon Caye to see a park ranger about getting a permit to dive the Great Blue Hole. As we approached Halfmoon Caye, which is in the Lighthouse Reef, my heart jumped and rejoiced. I have never in my life seen such colour of ocean. It was transparent. So, clear you can see the bottom. Because it was so shallow, we had to anchor way out and take the dingy to shore.
Halfmoon Caye got its name from its shape. It looks like a crescent moon. The Caye is a national monument. The first marine conservation area in Belize, it measures 45 acres in size and is home to about 4,000 red-footed boobies. This island reminded me of the South Pacific. We were the only tourists there. From the first step onto the island, I felt the magic of the place. Something out of prehistoric times it reminds me at every step that we are just a miniscule part of a bigger story. Hundreds of hermit crabs scurried beneath our feet as we traversed, keeping an eye on the moving floor. Andy and Stephanie walked around the island as Marina and I stared into the ocean and absorbed its natural beauty.
“Come, I know a spot,” Andy’s voice broke the silence. We followed, and he showed us a small beach perfect for a dip. All three of them jumped in the water while I contemplated the meaning of life, staring into the ocean. Listening, opening to it, letting its energy fill my soul… “Shark!” yelled Stephanie, breaking my trance. I jumped up and yelled, “Everyone out of the water!” as the shark beelined for Marina. Andy jumped in front, but it was a false alarm. It was just a frightened nurse shark.
A tropical isle sunset
After they had toweled off, we hiked up to the Bird Observatory. From the platform, we could see the birds’ nesting. There were lots of Frigate birds, with the males inflating their red throat pouch to attract the females. It looked dramatic, and we were captivated by the sight. We also spotted the rare Red-Footed Boobies.
That night, as we anchored by the coral reef wall, it was quiet. Marina slept on deck. We all got up multiple times at night to see the full moon and the lunar eclipse. The moon looked huge and outwardly.
The next day, we fired up the motor as we headed to the Great Blue Hole where Andy and Stephanie would dive. It has been on Andy’s bucket list for decades. Andy is an accomplished diver, and Stephanie has her PADI and did a few deeper dives as a novice. They were both excited and ready. They dove to 120 feet, and when they came out, they were forever changed and bonded by the mutual experience. Down there, all you have is each other, and you trust them with your life. A video of the dive is to come.
We spent the night tied to a buoy that the diving charters use, right at the edge of the hole with coral reef all around us. It was windy, and I did not get much sleep. As dawn broke, I was up first making breakfast, as they launched the drone to get some aerial videos. A coast guard boat came beside us and asked if we were okay and to see our tickets. They were impressed to see us there, wondering how we got a boat of that size through the reef?”. Depth sounder, careful navigation by our skilled captain and Stephanie at the bow calling out for obstacles!
The return trip was easier as we motored back through the coral reef, following our trail on the chart plotter. That took an hour. Once out and in the open ocean, we raised the sails, put on some music and enjoyed rolling along the six-foot swells. Yes, they were big, but not scary. The boat pitched and rolled and glided along the waves. We were happy and relaxed and enjoyed every minute of the five-hour sail to the southern tip of Tobacco Caye. There is where we discovered Reef’s End Restaurant right on the water. This small Caye, which is a resort, houses Reef’s End, a bar. They also offer all inclusive stays at their eco-friendly cabanas. Run on a solar system that provides more than 95% of power, the water they use for showers and basins is rainwater from their roofs and stored in tanks.
After a few drinks and watching the sun set, we were getting hungry. We tried to order dinner, but because it is a small place they only make enough for their guests and those who reserve ahead of time. Oh well, we were resigned to fill up on drinks when a couple from England told us their captain wouldn’t be joining them and there might be a spare dinner. We jumped at the opportunity and asked the lady in charge if we could buy it. She agreed, and luckily, there was another no-show, so we were able to buy two dinners with desserts that we shared amongst the four of us. We were very thankful and gobbled everything. We even licked the bones of the fish and ate the fried fish tail. Yumm.
With full bellies, we dinghied back to the boat under the moonlight. But guess what? The motor died five feet from the boat. Out of gas. I had images of Andy jumping in and pulling us, but when he didn’t, I asked, and he said, “You cannot swim against the current!” I asked for the paddle, but again he answered, “You can’t paddle against the current”. My heart sank, and I was scared for a moment. Images of us adrift in a small dingy for days, no food, no water. I wished I had not read “438 Days at Sea” before coming on this trip. But Andy was prepared. Lesson 4: Always have a back up. And he did. He had extra gas. When Marina asked what would happen if the motor quit, he said that he had an anchor on the dingy that he could use to anchor us or pull us closer. That Andy is a smart guy! I was so glad we were in such capable hands.
That night, Stephanie slept under the stars while Marina and I snored away, hatches fully opened. Best sleep ever. As morning broke, we set sail to look for a place to snorkel. About an hour in, we found a perfect spot. Close to an island that had a resort under construction. It was the weekend, and the place looked empty. We anchored and jumped off the boat for some fabulous snorkeling around the reef. I had to cut mine short because I spotted a jellyfish, and I am kind of scared of them. (I know, never mind the sharks and the barracudas and the stingrays, it’s jelly fish that frighten me.)
After a terrific, leisurely sail, we reached Placencia, where we tied up at the dock of Andy’s friends, Chris and Shannon. They live there in an open concept house with their dog and cat, to whom we had to pay a toll of treats for passage. They also have a boat; it is a large powerboat that runs on used vegetable oil. They were gracious enough not only to let us moor on their dock but also to open their house to us and let us use their laundry facility and their pool. After a few beers and good conversation, we retired for the night and slept like babies.
In the morning, we dinghied over to town to go explore it. Placencia is a small village located on the southern tip of the Peninsula. It is a popular place for boaters and tourists. There are many artisan shops, local restaurants, and homemade gelato and rum. Rum is cheap, and it flows freely during happy hour. So, after a few, we went to the beach and had a long swim. We were the only ones there. It was overcast but not raining. The water was warm and inviting, and we swam and swam and did not want to go out. We eventually did, and air dried, then headed to Barefoot bar where Chris and Shannon met us. We dined on seafood and had more of those “panty rippers” drinks and danced the night away with the live DJ and popular music. We eventually headed for the dingy to get back to the boat. It was dark, and we swayed and sashayed like a bunch of drunken sailors (which we were). When we reached the dock where the dingy was tied, Marina overreached and did a face plant. “Blame it on alcohol,” she said, laughing hard. Earlier, she had had the distinction of being “cut-off” at the bar. An unheard of event according to the locals. We knew we were leaving in the morning, so we were very liberal with drinks. We motored back to the boat, where we attempted to pack. That was a mistake, so we just threw things into our suitcases to finish in the morning.
We barely slept when, at 5:00 am, Andy had the dingy ready, and we finished packing. Marina and I were very sad to go. Stephanie was staying for a few extra days with Andy for some more diving and snorkeling excursions. As we reached the shore where the taxi was waiting for us to take us to the airport, we turned and gave Andy a big hug. In the background we looked for the boat silhouetted in darkness. We knew we were different people leaving. The experience changed us. It brought back memories of when we sailed with our parents and boating was a big part of our lives. We were grateful to relive some of those sailing experiences and to feel the thrill of sails and the fill in our hearts. We will forever be thankful to Captain Andy for letting us share a small part of his world with us, and we were happy that he will always be our friend and our sea Tarzan.
You can read Andy’s Blogs here: https://thenakedcanadian.wordpress.com/
You can purchase Andy’s books here: Amazon.ca: Andrew W. Gunson: books, biography, latest update